Dress Code & Footwear Logic
A wedding invites choices more considered than everyday dressing. Your shoes carry disproportionate weight: they must honor the dress code while remaining wearable beyond the day. Focus on restraint, cohesion, and craft — this is not the place for novelty.
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Suit/Formal
When the invitation reads Suit or Formal, the expectation is straightforward: wear a suit.
Traditionally, darker tones, navy, charcoal, or deep grey, communicate formality and restraint. They photograph well, complement evening light, and pair naturally with black shoes.
For daytime or summer weddings, lighter tailoring in linen, tropical wool or high-twist cotton offers ease without losing intent. The fabric should breathe, but the silhouette remain structured. A crisp shirt, understated tie and minimal accessories maintain the balance between celebration and composure.
When it comes to footwear, subtlety is key. A black calf Oxford remains the most traditional choice. Clean, closed-laced, and precise in line.
For slightly less formal settings, a loafer can introduce a softer character. The Penny Loafer, especially in dark brown or black calf, works elegantly with both two-piece and double-breasted tailoring.
Image reference: Andreas Weinås wearing a double-breasted chalk-striped suit with a white and blue-striped shirt and navy grenadine tie. The Oxford in black calf, as featured in our 2018 campaign, captures the essence of formal wedding dressing: composed, classic, and quietly confident.
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Black Tie
Black Tie remains the clearest of all dress codes. Formal, precise, and defined by restraint.
A tuxedo is non-negotiable: black or midnight blue wool with a silk-faced lapel, paired with a white shirt and a bow tie. The elegance lies in uniformity rather than interpretation.
Footwear should follow suit. A pair of Oxfords in black patent leather is the traditional foundation, complementing the mirrored surface of the tuxedo lapel.
Opera Pumps in black patent leather, featuring a subtle grosgrain bow, offer an even purer expression of formality, and is a style that has remained unchanged for centuries.
For those seeking a more contemporary interpretation, The Belgian provides a refined alternative. Though not conventional within the black tie canon, its slim profile and timeless look lend sophistication while remaining versatile beyond the wedding itself.
Image reference: Black tie styled by MORJAS for the December 2020 campaign.
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White Tie (also known as evening wear or full dress)
White Tie, also referred to as Evening Dress or Full Dress, represents the highest level of formality in menswear. Rooted in early 20th-century etiquette, the silhouette is built on precision and proportion.
A traditional ensemble features a black tailcoat, worn over a white marcella waistcoat and a starched wing-collar shirt. The line of the outfit should read as a continuous vertical column of black, from the tailcoat to the trousers, with only a discreet glimpse of white at the waist. The coat should end exactly where the trousers begin, maintaining a clean visual break.
When it comes to footwear, black patent leather is indispensable. The Opera Pump remains the historical reference point — a heritage style long associated with formal occasions.
Image reference: White tie attire illustrated, circa 1930s. A study in proportion, discipline, and understated grandeur.
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King Felipe VI of Spain wearing white tie impeccably. Notice the black line from top to bottom and the perfect pleats on the trousers.
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People Also Ask
Black calf oxfords remain the most classic choice for formal or suit-level dress codes.
Generally, no. White shoes draw attention away from the suit and the formality of the event. Reserve white footwear for very casual or summer settings, never for formal ceremonies.
Black tie permits patent oxfords or pumps; white tie traditionally requires patent pumps only.
Occasionally. Patent is best reserved for eveningwear.
Leather soles offer authenticity and polish, though some opt for rubber for comfort or outdoor venues.