Understanding Suede

Suede, with its soft nap and deep texture, has long been seen as delicate. A material reserved for dry, gentle days. In truth, high-quality suede is far more resilient than most imagine. When cared for properly, it develops character over time, adapting to the rhythm of daily wear.


Modern care products and well-tanned suede make it entirely possible to keep your shoes looking refined, even after rain or city dust.


The process, like most things worth doing, follows three steady steps: Clean. Care. Protect.

1. Clean — Preparing the Surface

Before you begin, insert cedar shoe trees to support the shape and absorb moisture.

Brush Away Dirt

Start by brushing the shoes thoroughly with a horsehair shoe brush to remove surface dust and grit.


Then, switch to a suede brush, either crepe for gentle cleaning or brass for tougher buildup. The goal here is to lift the nap and open the fibers before deeper treatment.

Deep Clean with Saphir Omni’Nettoyant

Pour a small amount of Saphir Médaille d’Or Omni’Nettoyant into a small bowl. Dilute slightly with water if a lighter cleanse is preferred.

Using the included brush, apply the cleaner evenly across the shoe in circular motions until a light foam appears.

Rinse the brush, then work water into the suede gradually, lifting away built-up grime.


And yes, suede can handle water. What matters is the drying process.

Rinse and Dry

Rinse gently under running water, ensuring residue is removed.

Use a rougher brush to clean the outsole and edges, with a touch of Saphir Plant-Based Cleaner if needed.

Once clean, stuff each shoe with newspaper to maintain shape and absorb moisture. Let them dry naturally overnight. Never near direct heat.

2. Care — Reviving the Colour and Texture

When dry, replace the newspaper with shoe trees. This stabilizes the leather and smooths creases.

Lift the Nap

Brush lightly again with your suede brush to lift the fibers and restore the surface texture.

Recolour and Nourish

For suede that’s faded or dulled, the Saphir Médaille d’Or Renovateur Spray is the standard.


Cover the interior opening with paper, then spray evenly across the surface from a slight distance.


Let the shoes rest for 10–15 minutes, allowing the pigment and conditioning agents to set.


Once dry, brush again lightly to bring back the natural look and feel of the nap.

3. Protect — The Finishing Barrier

Protection is what separates restored suede from maintained suede. It’s the final gesture that prolongs their beauty.

Apply Water and Stain Protection

Use Saphir Médaille d’Or Super Invulner, a high-performance impregnation spray that shields against rain, dirt, and oil.


Spray evenly from 20–30 cm away in a well-ventilated space.


Let the shoes rest for at least 30 minutes, then finish with one last gentle brushing.


Your suede is now restored. Supple, clean, and ready for use in all seasons.

The Final Step: Outsole Refinement

To complete the restoration, refresh the outsole edges:


Apply a small amount of Saphir Shoe Cream with a cloth along the leather edge. Let sit for a few minutes, then polish with a horsehair brush.


For extra sharpness, work in a little Saphir Wax Polish to seal and add sheen.

To extend the life of the sole, finish with Saphir Sole Guard, which provides moisture resistance and softens the leather over time.

Aftercare Routine

Suede doesn’t require constant attention. Just consistency.


  • Brush regularly after wear to prevent dust settling.

  • Re-spray protection every few weeks during wet seasons.

  • Store with shoe trees and allow the shoes to rest between wears.


Good care is not maintenance; it’s respect for the material.


Products used in this article

Conclusion

With the right products and patience, suede becomes not something to fear but to enjoy — a living material that rewards attention.

Follow this step-by-step method, and your suede shoes will age beautifully.

People Also Ask

Yes, during the cleaning process, high-quality suede tolerates water if dried naturally and brushed after.

Every 4–6 wears or after exposure to moisture.

Although generally a tougher material, nubuck has a finer grain and requires gentler brushing.

Brushing usually helps lift the nap. You can also steam lightly, then brush with a brass or crepe brush.

The Saphir Renovateur Spray.

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