Goldberger in St Tropez, June 2025
Interview and story by Henrik Berg
Photography by Abraham Engelmark

"We just arrived in St Tropez. Where are you?" 

I’m meeting Auro Montanari, also known as John Goldberger, on the French Riviera, where we’re capturing the third chapter in a story we’ve been telling together for six years.

"This is a special place to me. I've been coming since I was a kid."

He wears an azured-coloured fisherman's sweater and navy linen shorts together with beige espadrilles, vintage sunglasses and the new Rolex Titanium Yacht-master 2025.

Warm winds and light breezes are paying tribute to our rendezvous. The sun warms you up, the wind cools you off. Scents from the nectar of flowers and the salt from the Mediterranean soothe your senses into a meditative state. It smells of grilled fish somewhere. The scent of long-cooked tomato travels through the air from a kitchen in the distance. I'm thinking for a second or two what it might be used for. Maybe a ratatouille that will accompany the fish? The smells make you feel as your're being held in a warm, comforting arm. 

"Finally, you get to meet my wife. This is Francesca." 

It took five years to meet the woman Auro shares his life with. A native Roman. A Bvlgari Serpenti lover with an even bigger love for the sea, dogs, and Rome, who brings her own warmth and vibrance into the picture. 

"Henrik, have you been in Roma?" Yes, I respond to the charming smile of Francesca. 

"I want to live in Roma, but Auro wants to stay in Bologna for work and then travels all the time to Hong Kong, New York.. ah Auro! [….] I love New York though! New York I love!" 

"Yes yes, but St Tropez now, at this time of year, beats everything." Auro adds. 

So, why do we meet here? 

First, a rewind. I met Auro in 2019. In 2020, we did our first MORJAS story, shot in the calm of his home in Bologna, while the world outside was anything but calm. You can read that story here. In 2023, we did our second, in Milan. This third story brings us to a place close to Auro’s heart.

"When I was twelve, my parents took me and my brother here for the first time. It was our second trip outside of Italy." Auro continues. 

1969, twelve years after Auro's birth, his parents brought him to London which was their first trip outside of Italy. Later that year, in July of '69 the family visited St Tropez. 

Music on the beach, a sense of freedom, and lightness in the air opened the eyes and widened the perspectives of the young boy who today is one of the most respected authorities in the field of vintage watches. Since then, Auro has been coming back. 

"Then, when I was 18 and got my first car, I drove here that summer. A strong memory and a beautiful time. So it feels special to do our story here." 

Over the past years, I've had the privilege of getting to know a man whose depth extends beyond his reputation of being an esteemed watch collector and respected expert. What consistently stands out about Auro is his generosity — an understated but strong quality that surfaces in almost every encounter. A trait that is echoed by close friends.

"I still can't believe how generous Auro is with sharing his knowledge with everyone. People write to him all the time about watches, and he always tries to help — it's so remarkable. Kindness is his religion." Alfredo Paramico vividly repeated to me with a mix of admiration and bafflement during a lunch together in 2023. 

Perhaps generosity goes hand in hand with his curiosity, another characteristic that is not only inviting and pleasant for the people around him – but also key to becoming deeply knowledgeable in a particular field. 

"Here, try this" Auro says while passing the plate with artichokes. "I've always been a light eater" he adds. 

"Si, but tomorrow you will have the tarte saint tropézienne for breakfast, so you like your sweets too" Francesca fills in. 

During four days I spend quality time with Auro and Francesca. Eating, drinking, talking about life, family, food, art, philosophy, quality of life, shoes, watches. 

The waiter at a local favourite where we had breakfast greeted me upon arriving, "Are your parents coming?" Naturally, not my parents. But I think the question speaks for the ambience we enjoyed together. Both Auro and Francesca are people with big hearts, kind souls and humble personalities. 

Henrik (H): We've gotten up close and personal before, so let's narrow our focus a bit now, ok?

Goldberger (G): Bene.

H: We did our first story and interview five years ago, in 2020, which was published in 2021. What has happened in your life since then? 

G: I'm still very much involved in the family business as the CEO of Teko. And of course, still collecting watches. That never stops. I trade, buy, sell occasionally, but most of all, I play. It's still a lot of fun which is the core of it.

H: Has your taste or collecting focus evolved over these five years?  

G: Yes, quite a bit. These days, I'm narrowing my scope. After 50 years of collecting I'm becoming more selective — chasing rarity more than ever. I've always been drawn to interesting objects, large and small, but now I want my collection to reflect deeper curatorial intent. Fewer pieces, more meaning. 

H: At age 8, your father gifted you an Omega Seamaster calendar for your Confirmation. The watch was made in 1957 which is the year you were born. In two years you are turning 70. What will be the watch that you gift yourself then? 

G: I honestly don't know yet. We'll see. Every day I discover something new, something different. Just two weeks ago, I bought this beautiful Patek (ref. 1526 perpetual calendar in pink gold), which to me is special. It has to come to me without too much force.  

H: I know you started collecting out of boredom. Tell me.

G: My parents were deep into art. They brought me to galleries, fairs, auctions — trying to share their world with me. They simply wanted to involve me in their passion for art, but it didn't move me. I was bored. Then my father showed me watches, and it was like entering a whole new world. It resonated a lot with me and I've been captivated since.  

H: Was it important to your parents that you collect something — art, watches, anything? 

G: Yes, very much so.

H: Why?

G: They believed in placing value in meaningful things. Not just financially, but emotionally and intellectually. Something to care for, to grow with. It was about investing wisely and personally in culture rather than wasting money on fleeting pleasures.  

H: It seems you've taken that principle to heart and lived by it ever since. 

G: Well, yes. I've built what some might call an "important" collection, but more than that, it gives me a lot of joy and stimulation. The personal value of finding new pieces, interacting with friends in the industry and curating my collection is greater than the financial aspect of it. 

H: And I know that's true to your bones. Because you drive a Mercedes Benz B class. 

G: Yes. It's a comfortable car. I don't see the value in putting a lot of resources into a car. 

H: But you have hundreds, maybe thousands, of extremely rare watches. Isn't it tempting to trade just one of these for a beautiful car? 

G: To me, it doesn't matter. I don't see the point. I love my watches, and the value goes deeper than the monetary aspect. 

H: You've brought five watches with you. Tell me about them. 

G:

Patek Philippe, ref. 1526  

This came to me just a month ago, as I mentioned, via the Monaco Legend Group auction in Monte Carlo. It's a watch I've known for 35 years, originally from a great Italian collector. Very rare with a pink dial and pink gold case, retailed by Casa Massone in Rio de Janeiro, hence a Portuguese calendar. The condition is very good. A nice treasure, finally home.  

Patek Philippe, ref. 3448  

I bought this beauty a long time ago from an auction in the States. Almost a unique piece, confirmed by Patek. Yellow gold, gilt dial, luminous hands and dots on the index. Manufactured around the 1970s. Nice to wear for the Riviera style. 

Cartier Tanke Cintrée, Paris 1972 

A platinum Cintrée from the 70s. It's quite hard to find a good example from this time period with the original dial and crown. It has a Cartier Grougain bracelet (silk) with white gold and platinum buckle, which matches my tuxedo very well. Time only. One of my preferred watches. 

Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master 42, 2025 

A new Rolex from this year, which features titanium throughout the collection, is very light and pleasant to use. Rolex did a great job with the materials, making this a wearable, modern and nice sports watch — especially the bracelet.  

Cartier Tanke Normale, 1978 

I actually bought this as a gift for my wife a couple of years ago. I found it at an auction and occasionally borrow it. It fits my wrist quite well. Beautiful balance with platinum and white gold bracelet. 

H: Tough question. Name your 10 favourite watches. 

G: Close to impossible to answer, but I can mention a few that come top of mind:  

• • Patek Philippe ref. 1518  

• • Cartier Tank Cintrée  

• • Cartier Tank Normale 

• • Cartier Tanke à Guichets 

• • A few Breguet wristwatches from the 1930s-50s

• • Maybe a Vacheron Constantin Cioccolatone in white gold. Very classic and time only. But very hard to find. 

 
But again it's very hard to answer, and these are just thoughts that came top of mind. 

H: Last time we talked about newer names — you mentioned Richard Mille. That surprised a few people. What is it about RM that speaks to you?

G: I think Richard Mille is very interesting, because he came up with something truly different and brought fresh air to the market. Very high level of creativity in both the materials and technical innovation. It's so hard to bring something new to the market, but Richard achieved that without copying anyone else. That, to me is inspiring. He brought his passion for racing into watches. Richard has a great collection of cars and I think that fuelled the creativity for his designs. In addition, his watches sit on the wrists of many racing drivers today, especially in Formula 1 — which goes hand in hand with his design passion.  

H: Final thought. Mercedes B class. Really? 

G: You'll learn.